Cars for news

Wear the right sunglasses to cut glare, not the pair you think looks most fashionable.

Those are two of the conclusions from a new UK study into the dangers of wearing fashionable sunglasses while driving, which also found that 1 in 10 British women chose fashionable designs that dangerously restrict their peripheral vision. While no similar data is available for the Australian market, it would be reasonable to expect that number to be even higher under the brighter, glarier Australian skies.

Sunglasses that make you look fashionable may also be very dangerous to wear while driving because they can affect your vision, particularly your peripheral vision.

Peripheral vision is what we rely on to see a car approaching at an intersection, what we use to see a child running onto the road, and we need our peripheral vision working 100% because objects in our peripheral vision can be right in front of us in a few milliseconds, giving us very little time to react.

Do yourself and everyone else a favor and switch from your stylish sunglasses to your driving sunglasses when you get into your car.

What makes a safe pair of driving sunglasses?

Australian motoring associations and standards bodies don’t currently offer guidelines on what makes a good pair of driving sunglasses, but here are our recommendations, based on advice from the UK’s Eye Care Trust:

• Choose a design with a thin frame and arms so that they don’t obscure your peripheral vision. Thick chunky fashionable sunglasses are more than big enough to obscure something in your peripheral vision and cause an accident.
• Fashionably dark tints will impair your vision in anything other than the strongest sunlight, so we’d recommend a lighter tint.
• colored tints are designed for use in specific lighting conditions that may not always be present when you’re driving, so avoid these unless you are sure you have lenses for the current driving conditions.
• Choose polarizing filters if possible as they specifically cut the kind of reflected light created by the windscreen of the car in front of you, and reflections cast up from the road by water or debris.
• Many glasses are available with variable tinting which changes according to the amount of light, which can help make your glasses usable in a broader range of situations.
• Some manufacturers, such as Bolle and Serengeti, make sunglasses specifically for driving.

You can also download the free guide to good driving eye wear from the UK’s Eyecare Trust.

What’s the best way to find a pair of sunglasses that meet these recommendations?

Go to your friendly, neighborhood optometrist (not a sunglasses store) and ask them to fit you with a pair of driving sunglasses. They can ask you about your typical driving conditions and if necessary test your eyesight (if you’re male, they can test you for color-blindness too) to make sure you have the best possible vision when driving. Many optometrists will test your eyesight at no charge.

If you’re spending your own money on renting a car, there are pitfalls galore; and it pays to do your homework.

If you believe the advertisements, renting a car appears – on the face of it – to be a stress-free, easy transaction. You front up to the counter, hand over your credit card, sign a few documents, accept the keys to your near-new, filled-to-the-brim vehicle, and drive off into the sunset.

And for corporate customers driving on the company credit card, that’s how smoothly it can go. Car rental companies love corporate customers because they have deep pockets and offer plenty of repeat business. For the well-heeled corporate customer, great deals and gold cards are the norm.

But when you or I walk into the car rental outlet, the game changes. Corners may be cut, inclusions may be excluded, and there are pitfalls galore for the uninitiated. So here’s a few tips from the experts on how to really drive your dollar further.

Rule 1: Book your car when you book your flight.
Much like the airline business, the earlier you book, the better deal you’ll get. If you arrive at your destination and front the counter for a rental car, you will pay top dollar – and most likely you won’t get the size or type of car you want. Instead of a Corolla, you’ll simply get what the company has on offer and pay the maximum rate to boot. Most rental companies do not charge a cancellation fee either, so if your plans change there’s no financial penalty.

Rule 2: Know what you want.
Car rental companies don’t segregate vehicles by brand name. They split their fleet into cars which fit specific categories, usually alphabetical and usually defined by size, engine capacity and features. An A-class car, for instance, could be a Hyundai Getz, or a Holden Barina, or a Kia Rio, while a B-Class could be a Corolla or a Pulsar. The bigger the car, the more you’ll pay. And don’t expect to get the specific brand of car you see pictured in the brochure because you are sure to be disappointed. If you have need of a specialized vehicle, such as a people-mover, make your booking weeks in advance.

Rule 3: Shop around, and take advantage of special deals.
A handful of car rental companies control the bulk of the business and are fiercely competitive. You’ll find most are within $5 of each other on competitive category cars but from time to time, they’ll cut rates to woo customers. Corporate “partnerships” also means reduced rates are offered through credit card providers (Amex, etc) or airline frequent flayer memberships. Surf these websites and scan the brochure material to milk these relationships for a potential further 10-20 per cent discount; a little homework here can save big bucks, particularly on a medium-to-long term rental.

Rule 4: Read the terms and conditions.
Yes, it’s a pain but there are a myriad of traps hidden therein. Some of these include: failing to nominate a second or third driver (if he/she has an accident, your insurance is null and void); and driving on dirt roads (the large rental companies allow you to go on any gazetted road while smaller ones don’t permit it unless you’re renting a soft-roader SUV or 4WD).

Rule 4: Check your rental car for damage before driving away.
If the car has any noticeable scratches or dents, these should be noted and co-signed by a company representative on the agreement form. If not, you may be liable for the insurance excess (as much as $2000).

Rule 5: Ask for an all-inclusive quote for a specific period of time.
That way you won’t get any nasty surprises from extras like the airport concession recovery fee (which some rental companies sneak on the agreement as a percentage on the complete deal). However, companies generally don’t like to include insurance costs in their quotes, because this is a negotiable process and depends on how much excess you are willing to pay in the event of a prang.

Rule 6: Watch out for the hefty “one-way” fee.
If you are only planning to drive from one destination to the next (say, Sydney to Brisbane) and leave the car there, rental companies will charge extra to return the car to its point of origin. As a general rule of thumb, the further the distance (from point of origin), the higher the charge.

Rule 7: Refuel the car before returning it.
Car rental companies charge double the market rate ($2.41 or more a liter) to top the car back up, and then add it to your credit card.

Mark Hinchliffe wonders what car should young people buy? Simple question, complex answer.

TYPE OF CAR

First, the young buyer needs to recognize what they need in a car.

An apprentice may need a ute or wagon, a uni student probably only needs a light or small car, someone up country would probably be better off in a larger car or maybe even a sports utility vehicle if terrain requires it.

Don’t buy an SUV just because you want to go to Fraser Island once a year. Considering insurance, running costs and fuel, it would be cheaper to buy a small car and hire an SUV for the annual trip.

Exotic cars look great, but are more expensive to buy, fix and run. The more popular the car, the cheaper it will be.

NEW OR USED

Of course, used is cheaper, but is it better?

New cars offer the latest in safety options and they come with sometimes considerable warranties that even include roadside assistance, which can be pretty valuable for inexperienced drivers.

New cars lose about 25 % of their value the instant you drive them off the lot, but that is offset the longer you own the vehicle. And what price can you put on peace of mind?

SHOP AROUND

There are hundreds of car yards in your country. Go and browse around so you get a feel for prices and values.

You may also want to visit a car auction to see how it works and what prices cars go for.

Also research on the internet and in newspapers to compare prices.

WHERE TO BUY

Unless you are fortunate enough to know someone in the car dealer business, private sales will yield the lowest prices. However, there are problems with location, no guarantees, etc.

You could end up with a bomb that still owes thousands to a hire purchase company or could even be stolen.

Note the seller’s driver’s license details and cross-check with the registration details to see if they match.

The vehicle must have a current safety certificate that shows the car meets minimum legal requirements to drive. It could still be a lemon.

Car dealers can be safer, if more expensive.

Some car dealers now even offer warranties on used vehicles, plus they are strictly controlled by fair trading laws, there are cooling-off periods and you have the ability to complain to the Office of Fair Trading if it all goes pear-shaped.

Be aware that some used car warranties will cost extra and that there is already a free statutory warranty on all used cars.

It guarantees free repair of certain defects by the dealer or their nominated repairer, if the defects are found after you’ve bought the vehicle.

For cars less than 10 years old and an odometer reading under 160,000km, the warranty is three months or 5000km, otherwise, it’s one month or 1000km.

Brokers licensed under the Property Agents and Motor Dealers Act can get good prices and will do the legwork for you, but they also charge a commission.

Auctions can offer good deals, but are best left alone by young, inexperienced buyers.

They have no cooling-off period, usually no opportunity for a test drive, possibly no statutory warranty and limited opportunity to inspect the car.

If you want to try an auction, take along an adult who has bought at auction before.

Wherever you buy, take an experienced adult with you and insist on getting an RACQ inspection first. If they refuse, go elsewhere.

Under the Property Agents and Motor Dealers Act, you’re entitled to a “cooling off” period of one business day during which you can take the car for an independent inspection or a test drive.

Never buy online sight unseen, either privately or through a dealer.

HOW TO BUY

Young buyers are probably limited to cash or loan.

Cash can bargain you a good price. Loans can be as good as cash if you source it through a bank and front with the money.

Be wary of finance agreements with car yards or even seemingly independent finance companies. Read the fine print and find out how much the total cost will be at the end of the loan. It may surprise and alarm you. Don’t sign anything without adult supervision.

If you don’t want the car, you must advise the dealer in writing before the cooling-off period expires. The dealer can keep up to $99 of your deposit.

RUNNING COSTS

Buying the car is just the first step in a marathon of costs.

There is stamp duty, insurance, vehicle transfer cost, rego, fuel, repairs, tyres, oil and regular services. Your $11,000 budget might only buy you a $7500 car once you consider all the other costs.

Insurance costs can be saved by a number of factors: being part of your parents’ policy, making sure your driving record is good, participating in advanced driving courses, keeping your car in a locked garage, making no modifications to the vehicle and more.

Cars with bigger engines are not only fuel-hungry but cost more to register and insure.

Petrol-engined passenger cars made since 1986 run on unleaded fuel.

Cars built before then run on leaded fuel, which is no longer to avail. Some will run on regular unleaded, but others need expensive premium and might need a lead replacement additive each fill.

Young buyers should also consider an alternative-powered car such as a diesel or LPG model.

The RACQ website provides an annual survey on the running costs of cars which includes everything right down to depreciation and cost of replacement parts.

SAFETY

Safety should be the prime concern for young drivers who are two and a half times more likely to be involved in an accident.

RACQ executive manager for technical services Steve Spalding said older vehicles were cheaper, but lacked many of the modern safety devices such as air bags, sophisticated crash protection, anti-skid brakes and traction control of new cars.

SECURITY

Immobilizer and alarm systems may add to the cost of the car, but they also tries to reduce insurance premiums.

Most insurance companies will have vehicle theft ratings on their websites, which will also give a clue to premium costs.

Young women, in particular, should look for remote locking and auto locking features which increase personal safety, especially at night.

OTHER FEATURES

This will be up to you and your needs, but be realistic.

Is a good sound system more important than good tyres?

Don’t buy a car for its accessories. Make sure that the basic car is mechanically sound and rust-free before you worry about modifications.

And never allow a salesman or private seller to make an issue of the extra value in the accessories. There is no extra value in an accessory unless it is important to your needs, such as a roof rack to carry your ladder to work.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

In a car yard, sight the motor dealer’s license which should be clearly displayed.

You have no protection under the law if the dealer is unlicensed.

Also ask to see the Register of Encumbered Vehicles (REVS) certificate to be sure there is no money owing on the car.

If buying privately or through a car yard, check that the vehicle has an up-to-date safety certificate and check the seller’s re-go and driver’s license.

SALES TIP

There is no pressure. There are thousands of cars out there and even the one you have your heart set on is not the only one available.

Take your time, don’t succumb to sales pressure and don’t buy the first thing you see.

BEFORE YOU SIGN

It might be a good deal, look good on the lot and have passed all inspections, but still take it for a test drive. Make sure it is insured first.

Read the contract.

There should also be a notice giving details about the second-hand car, the cooling-off period and the non-refundable deposit, particulars about the previous owner and a notice about the statutory warranty period.

Get a receipt for your deposit.

Don’t be tempted or forced to take possession of the car on the day you sign the contract because you will lose your cooling-off rights. You can take the car for a test drive or an independent mechanical inspection though.

In a private deal, draw up a basic contract including purchase price and date, Vehicle Identification Number and owner’s details (license, rego etc). You’ll also need to organise a registration transfer.

Pay by bank cheque which gives you evidence of payment.

Even with a contract, there is little protection with a private sale.

DONE DEAL

OK, you bought the car. Before leaving the car yard, make sure you have a form stating details about the vehicle including odometer reading and the guarantee of clear title.

When you get home, read the warranty terms and conditions, and read the car’s user’s manual. If there are problems, just take back the vehicle immediately.

If you have further problems, go to the Office of Fair Trading or apply to the Small Claims Tribunal.

The Office of Fair Trading decides minor claims up to $5000.

Claims over $5001 will be referred to the Property Agents and Motor Dealers Tribunal for a decision.

(Information provided by RACQ, NRMA Insurance, AAMI, Office of Fair Trading, carsguide.com.au)

If you carry out all the right checks before buying a used car, you can rest easy in the knowledge you have covered all the bases and bought a good, sound car. If you don’t you could find yourself with a lemon that will cost you a fortune to repair or rid yourself of, and stress you to the max in the process.

It’s not that difficult. Most of the checks are common sense, so don’t be put off. An initial check of the basics will often rule out the duds and, once you’ve homed in on the car you reckon is the one to buy, have it thoroughly checked by a properly qualified professional.

These are the basic checks you can easily do when assessing a car to buy.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. DOG TYRED

TYRES are the most critical safety item on a car, so it’s important to check the rubber.

Read the tyre placard — usually inside the front door — or the owner’s manual to make sure the tyres that are fitted are the correct size, have the correct load and speed ratings, and are all the same.

A look at the inflation pressure in the tyres may tell you something about the owner and how diligent they are about regular checks.

State laws require a minimum tread depth of 1.5mm; any less and you will have to replace them when you want to transfer ownership. Also look for splits, bulges or scars in the sidewalls or tread area.

Check the spare, too. Unless it’s a space-saver it should be the same size as the other tyres, have the same load and speed rating, and be roadworthy.

Alloy wheels should be checked for damage caused by hitting kerbs. Slight scarring can be machined out, but heavy damage may have buckled or cracked the rim. If the alloys were not factory-fitted, make sure they have the correct load rating — this is particularly important for utes, vans and heavy four-wheel drives.

It is illegal to drive on wheels that have the incorrect load rating — you could be put off the road.

2. UNDER THE BONNET

CHECK the engine bay for general cleanliness. If it sparkles, it may have been recently cleaned for sale. A filthy bay would suggest neglect. It should be somewhere in between.

Look for oil leaks around the engine, coolant leaks around the radiator and hoses, and leaks from the power-steering system.

Also look for cracked or perished cooling hoses and engine-drive belts, and frayed and loose wiring.

Pull out the engine-oil dipstick and check the oil quality. It shouldn’t be dirty or smell burnt, and there should be no sign of moisture. Do the same with the auto-transmission dipstick.

Milkiness in the coolant is a sure sign of oil in the system and an indicator of major engine problems.

3. ON THE INSIDE

OUR hot sun and high UV punishes cars, particularly the interiors.

Today’s sharply angled windscreens leave the dash more exposed to the sun, causing ugly cracks in dash pads, instrument binnacles and other plastic hardware. These can be repaired, but it’s expensive.

Early European and Japanese cars don’t take our harsh sun very well and are most prone to damage, but plastics have improved and it’s not such a problem on later-model cars.

The trim gets punished as well, especially the driver’s seat. Expect it to be worn and faded, perhaps even torn and split. Look beneath any seat covers — they could be concealing damaged trim.

Carpets may also be worn, particularly under the driver’s right foot. Lift any mats and check underneath for wear.

4. PERFECT PAINT

FADED paint is common on older cars, particularly those from Asia. Red or silver is worst, but at least it’s obvious when it occurs.

Check flat surfaces that are most exposed to the sun, such as bonnet, roof, boot lid and bumpers.

Flaws other than fading aren’t so visible. Cars left parked under trees or powerlines may be damaged by sap and bird droppings, both of which are acidic and damage paint.

If the deposits are not cleaned away quickly the paintwork can be permanently stained and there’s little or no chance of restoring it.

5. ALL SYSTEMS GO

METHODICALLY test all systems to ensure they work. Assume nothing. Try the wipers on all speeds, headlights on low and high beam, tail, brake and reversing lights, turn signals, side repeaters, headlight flashers and fog lamps.

Make sure all the warning lights come on when the ignition is switched on, and go off as they’re meant to when the engine starts. Any that stay on indicate a problem.

Operate the air conditioning in all modes, and do the same with the heater.

If the car has power windows and mirrors, work them up and down, in and out. Slide the seats back and forth and crank the seat-back up and down.

Don’t forget the sound system, Take along a favorite CD, slide it in and listen. Does it sound the way it should? Try all modes — radio, cassette, CD — and make sure all speakers belt out the sound, with no rattles or odd noises that could suggest a fault.

When road-testing the car, play a CD and see if it skips when you’re traveling along a bumpy road.

If cruise control is fitted, engage it during the road test, put it through all modes and make sure it disengages correctly.

6. SAFE ‘N’ SOUND

SAFETY should be top of list when we buy a car, so checking that the safety equipment works properly is a must.

Airbags cannot be readily checked, but make sure the airbag warning light works by turning on the ignition, and that it goes out when the engine is started.

If it’s not illuminated when the ignition is first turned on, it’s possible there’s a fault with the airbag; if it stays illuminated when the engine starts, it almost certainly has a fault.

Look for wear on the seatbelt webbing straps and make sure the inertia reel works correctly by extending the belt and allowing it to feed back. The action should be smooth and without hesitation.

When you jerk the belt it should lock; if it doesn’t, it won’t do so in a crash when you need it the most. It should also lock when the car is parked on a big slope, up, down or sideways.

7. BE BODY WISE

RUST is a serious problem on all cars, though the widespread use of galvanized steels and extensive use of rust-prevention treatments on modern cars means it’s not the problem it once was.

Cars usually rust from the inside out. Moisture gets trapped between panels, inside doors, under carpets and seals, where the steel is unprotected by paint or other surface treatments.

If you see bubbles, holes or stains in the external painted surfaces, you can be sure more serious corrosion is taking place below the surface.

Areas most prone to rusting are the lower sections of the doors, the front and rear mudguards, the interior and boot floors, and around the windows.

Open all doors and check the lower faces; lift the carpets, including the boot mat, and look for moisture underneath. Look for staining around windows, which could indicate rusting of the window-sealing flange.

External rusting usually occurs when the painted surface is damaged, exposing the steel underneath.

Look for scratches and dents not only on the outer surfaces, but on the under body, which can be damaged by rocks, deep ruts or debris on the road.

An under body check is vital on four-wheel drives — they are most exposed to damage from sand, rocks, logs and water when used off the beaten track.

Extended use on gravel roads can sand-blast the under body almost clean, giving rust a hold.

Off-road tracks are littered with rocks and logs that can be flung against the under body, causing considerable damage not only to the under body but to the various mounting brackets that retain fuel and brake lines, exhaust pipes and suspension.

River and creek crossings further encourage rust.

8. ON THE ROAD

FOR the road test, try to arrange to start the car from stone cold, because that’s when problems will be most apparent.

Note any rattles or knocks during start-up, and once started the engine should idle smoothly and steadily. It shouldn’t hesitate or stall when you go to drive away.

Keep checking the oil-pressure and coolant-temperature gauges. The oil-pressure gauge should quickly rise to mid-scale position and stay there; if it’s slow to rise or drops away there’s a problem.

The coolant-temperature gauge should also rise to mid-scale and stay there; if it rises the engine may be overheating.

Accelerate hard, up to full throttle if conditions allow you to do so safely. Does the engine readily respond?

Have someone tail you during the drive so they can watch for smoke from the exhaust, particularly on acceleration or when you lift off the accelerator pedal.

The steering should be straight ahead, with no tendency to pull left or right under brakes. There should be no jerkiness in the steering when the wheel is turned.

When driving over bumpy roads the suspension should react to the bump, then quickly settle back to normal. If it continues to bounce well after you’ve driven over the bump, the shock absorbers probably need replacing.

The automatic transmission should select gears smoothly and without hesitation when accelerating under load, and it should down shift when you step on the accelerator hard, or select a lower gear.

Likewise, a manual gearbox should show no reluctance to engage gears, reverse included, and the clutch should take up smoothly and without slipping.

Listen all the while for noises from the exhaust, the gearbox and differential, and squeaks and rattles from the body.

9. TAKE A CRASH COURSE

CRASH repairers generally do a good job, so good it can be hard to pick that a car has been crunched.

But some do, for various reasons, cut corners; others are downright disreputable and do a really poor job.

Shoddy crash repairs generally can be easily seen. Look for over spray on parts that shouldn’t have paint on them, such as tyres, rubber seals, chrome trim, windows, headlights and plastic trim.

Also look inside door, boot and bonnet openings, because these are areas that lazy painters will often leave uncleaned after repairs have been done.

Excessive dust from body filler in hard-to-reach nooks and crannies is also a telltale sign that all is not well with the body.

Other giveaways, particularly in relatively new cars, are rattles and squeaks, sagging or misaligned doors, misaligned windows, and screws and bolts that show the marks of a spanner.

An even worse problem is a car that has been involved in a serious crash, then been “cut and shut” — the damaged area cut away and a new section welded on. Such a vehicle is dangerous, so if there’s even a hint of major damage, have it checked.

The worst cases can often be visually detected by watching as they’re driven down the road. If a car is crabbing — that is, not driving straight — walk away from it.

10. SERVICE HISTORY

ASK the vendor for the service history. Reluctance to provide it should be a warning sign that maintenance hasn’t been a priority.

A service history will tell you who has serviced the car — a dealer, service specialist or local mechanic.

It will also give you a running history of the car’s mileage so you can have some confidence in the current odometer reading.

11. GET PRO HELP

NO MATTER how well you think you’ve checked a car, it’s worth getting an expert to cast an experienced eye over it. Before you hand over your cash, have it checked by a motoring organization such as the RACV, a professional body such as the VACC, or a trusted mechanic.

If drivers thinks about what they do before they start driving each day, road injuries and deaths could be drastically reduced.

It’s as easy as taking a mental “refresher” each morning before you start driving for the day. Even if a good driver absentmindedly sets off, he or she could find themselves out of control because they have taken driving for granted.

Drivers with years behind the wheel and no blemishes on their record can become complacent with dangerous results.

According to expert instructors, it’s the little things that can determine whether or not you have a crash and its severity.

The top 10 list of driving mistakes start with not looking far enough ahead.

Many drivers keep their eyes straight ahead, on the car in front, leaving them ill-prepared for an emergency among other vehicles ahead.

It’s important to raise your eyes and scan the traffic ahead. Not many people realize that their peripheral vision works up and down as well as from side to side.

Related to the first mistake is traveling too close to the vehicle in front. It is an all too common practice. The best rule to apply here is to leave a two-second gap between yourself and the vehicle in front.

Deadly mistake number three is failing to adjust driving to suit the conditions.

Weather changes driving dynamics considerably. In sunny conditions, glare can be a hazard; in the wet, roads become slick while rain and spray reduce visibility.

Reducing speed in the rain increases control and your ability to react safely.

Mistake number four often comes as a surprise incorrect tyre pressures. They are considered a major vehicle defect and can have a marked effect on how a car handles. Check your tyre pressures every time you refuel; the couple of extra minutes it takes may save your life.

Hard driving is mistake number five because it puts unnecessary stress and strain on the vehicle and makes life difficult for other drivers.

Deliberately swerving to change lanes or to avoid an obstacle doesn’t give people around you a lot of time to react.

Number six mistake is failing to use mirrors or not having them correctly set in the first place.

Most set up their wing mirrors so they can see the sides of the car but they’re actually creating blind spots.

Set wing mirrors until you just lose sight of the back corner of the car.

Failing to keep left on multi lane roads is number seven on the list.

Hogging the right-hand-lane is plain dumb and it makes you a hazard to others.

It may seem like commonsense to obey the road rules, but not doing so is mistake number eight and it happens all the time.

Mistake number nine is incorrect seat posture usually too far away from the wheel. You should have slightly bent arms but not so close you’re hugging the wheel.

The last big mistake is failure to keep cars in a roadworthy condition and it’s not just smoky rust buckets a blown indicator or tail light instantly makes a car not roadworthy and dangerous.

Everyone should check their cars once a week to make sure headlights, indicators, tail lights and brake lights do work.