Archive for September 19th, 2007

Care for your car

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

Beach towel, beer and bathers aren’t the only things to worry about before heading off on your summer holiday. Your car will need some attention first.

RACQ, Holden and road safety and driver education organization Murcotts Driving Excellence have contributed some tips for making the driving holiday a little safer and cheaper.

From wiper blades to fuel savings, they have covered all the bases.

RACQ technical research officer Russell Manning said motorists needed to remember that a lot of mechanics took long breaks over the Christmas/New Year period, so finding a workshop that could carry out unforeseen breakdown repairs could be a problem.

“By having faults rectified, you’ll be able to set off on holidays knowing you have a much better chance of avoiding a breakdown a long way from home,” he said.

“But don’t leave having your car checked and repaired until the last minute, as workshops generally get busier at this time of year.”

RACQ vehicle inspectors examine a car’s mechanicals thoroughly and provide a written report on faults and developing faults, he said.

After Queensland’s dry winter the intense heat and possible rains of summer could expose deterioration at various points on a vehicle, which could lead to malfunctions.

Manning said even small things such as the wiper blades could need attention.

“If a vehicle’s wipers are not wiping cleanly, the blades may need to be replaced,” Manning said.

Changing your wiper blades is one of the services Super cheap Auto is providing for customers until the end of January, so you have no excuses.

“It’s also a good idea to check the operation and aim of the tiny windscreen water jets. Have your mechanic re-aim them if necessary.”

TYRES

TYRES, especially the front ones, need to be checked for uneven wear. Uneven wear could indicate the wheel alignment needs adjustment or that the steering or suspension is worn or damaged, Manning said.

They should have at least two millimeters of tread; about the thickness of a match. Damaged or excessively worn tyres should be replaced.

Holden and Murcotts claim proper tyre inflation can also help fuel economy.

Under-inflated tyres create rolling resistance and can cause road cars to use more fuel. Under-inflation is also a leading cause of tyre failures and blowouts. Checking the air pressure of your tyres (including the spare) reduces fuel consumption, increases the tyre life and improves safety.

Tyre pressure should be checked when tyres are cold, having been stationary for more than three hours.

Always use a tyre pressure gauge to check the tyres; simply looking at them is not sufficient.

Holden also suggests getting a wheel alignment. Incorrect alignment makes the wheels drag, which increases fuel consumption and causes uneven and premature tyre wear.

EXHAUST

MANNING said one of the most forgotten items in a safety check was the exhaust system.

“The system should be checked from the manifold (engine outlet) to the tail pipe for leaks. In most cases leaks will be audible but, if in doubt, have the system checked by a competent mechanic,” he said.

“Leaks can lead to lethal carbon monoxide seeping into the passenger compartment, and even a small amount could cause drowsiness and lead to an accident.”

BRAKES

MOTORISTS should check brake fluid levels regularly and keep a close watch for tell-tale fluid leaks from brake cylinders, lines and hoses on such places as the inside walls of tyres or on the garage floor. “Drivers should take particular note of sponginess, excessive free travel or abnormal noises or shuddering when braking, and seek a professional assessment where necessary,” he said.

OVERHEATING

ENGINE overheating was another summer motoring hassle that could be avoided with proper maintenance.

“Around town on short trips the radiator may appear to be working just fine. But once out on the highway, low coolant levels or other cooling system problems could soon expose a car’s engine to operating temperatures it just can’t handle,” Manning said.

“It’s important you check the cooling system regularly. But it’s not just a simple matter of adding water to the radiator. Motorists in doubt about how to assess and maintain their car’s cooling system should have the experts check it over before they set off on a motoring trip.”

Having air conditioning systems checked and serviced if necessary after their limited winter use could help ensure motorists and their passengers traveled more comfortably.

FRESH AIR

A DIRTY air filter can decrease fuel economy. Check your owner’s manual for information about when to change your filter. In addition, the air filter helps protect the inside of the engine from impurities.

ECONOMY

ACCELERATE gently and avoid rapid starts. Sudden bursts of speed, full throttle acceleration and hard braking are certain fuel wasters. Drive the vehicle at a steady speed.

If driving a manual transmission vehicle, it is desirable to reach top gear as soon as possible, but under no circumstances should you force the engine to labor in top gear.

The engine runs most efficiently between around 1500 and 2500rpm and even lower in diesels. To maintain these low revs you should change up through the gears as soon as practical and before the revs reach 2500rpm.

Automatic transmissions will shift up faster if you ease back slightly on the accelerator once the car gathers momentum.

PACKING

PACKING the vehicle sensibly and not carrying excessive gear on roof-racks will significantly reduce fuel consumption, particularly at high speed on freeways/highways.

Loading the vehicle changes the mass distribution and therefore the handling of the vehicle. After loading, be sure to take time to become familiar with the feel of the vehicle.

Restrain loose items. Whenever possible, stow articles in the luggage compartment.

Perhaps consider, if driving a wagon, fitting a cargo barrier to avoid loose objects entering the cabin. Don’t overload the vehicle. Check load capacity of car.

LIGHTS

ENSURE there are no vehicle warning and reminder indicator lights on. Properly aimed headlamps are a must for optimal visibility.

BATTERIES

WEAK batteries can lead to breakdowns, possibly at the worst time and place. Have it tested by an expert.

FLUIDS

CHANGE the oil and filter at recommended intervals to minimize engine wear and reduce the possibility of internal damage. Check coolant, oil, power steering, transmission, brake fluid, even washer solvent.

How to make the right choice when you start buying

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

For young people, buying a first car can be daunting. Looks, safety features, engine sizes, a small or large car, insurance, new or used? The list seems never-ending. But purchasing your first car doesn’t have to
be a scary experience.

NRMA motoring services has a program, Free2go, dedicated to young people. The three-year program offers free advice to young people and free roadside assistance for 17- and 18-year-olds.

NRMA Insurance head of industry research, Robert McDonald, says young people shouldn’t rush their purchase and should compare what’s on offer after a good look at websites, newspapers and magazines.

“Buy as new a car as you can, avoid buying an older car to save money,” he says.

And McDonald urges young people to consider safety as one of the top priorities, claiming new cars are the best way to go.

“There are some small cars, like the Toyota Yaris, with excellent safety equipment for a low price,” he says. “Side curtain airbags are dramatically effective in reducing head injuries, and you have ABS and stability control in many small cars, an added advantage.”

McDonald says people should also look out for stability control, which prevents the car getting out of control and sliding, particularly when going faster than expected.

But if buyers can’t afford a new or nearly new car, McDonald says there are some things to look out for in older models.

“If you are stuck with an older car, medium or larger cars would be a little better, safer than an old small car,” he says.

“Make sure safety equipment is up to date, especially seat belts. There are a lot of cars from the late 1980s and early ’90s that have airbags, you should be looking for at least driver and passenger airbags.”

Plenty of cars from the mid-1990s also feature ABS, McDonald says.

And while image may play an important part in the final decision, a recent survey by the youth insurer branch of AAMI, Just Car Insurance, shows young people are more car savvy when it comes to purchasing than they’re often given credit for. The national survey of 1053 young people, aged between 18 and 24, shows the look and appearance of a car is not necessarily a top priority. A total of 93 per cent rate value for money as an important factor when purchasing a car.

Young people are also aware of the importance of safety and security, with 85 per cent of respondents ranking these as significant factors. More than half say environmental friendliness is also a key factor.

Sheree Masters, 17, bought her first car in October last year, five months before she had her provisional licence. She bought a 2000 model Toyota RAV4, a car she’s always had her heart set on. Masters purchased her vehicle from a dealership for just over $20,000.

“I saved up half of it, I have been working since I was 14, and I got a loan for the other half,” she says.

And while looks and appearance topped her list, she wasn’t about to sacrifice safety.

“I wanted something I would be safe getting around in,” she says. “I have to admit, the appearance did come first. But safety features like ABS, electric windows and central locking so I feel safe, and airbags were important.”

Masters turned to her father for advice when shopping for her first car. “My dad knows a lot about cars so he told me what I should be looking for, but besides that, I pretty much made the decision myself,” she says.

“I always wanted to have my own car, that way I could call it my own, it’s something I have earned myself. I’m never out of my car, I’m in it every day,” she says. “Friends’ places, to work, everywhere.” Masters is hoping to slightly modify her vehicle with mag wheels and darker window tinting.

McDonald reminds young people to be cautious if purchasing a modified vehicle, as they are often harder to insure.

“Make sure you check with the insurer that the modification is acceptable to them,” he says. “Lower suspension, wide wheels or elaborate paint work can dramatically effect the cost of insurance.”

He says owners should especially check that engine modifications don’t affect its ability to be insured.

How to get a good deal

NRMA motoring expert, Tim Pomroy, says buying your first car requires researching what to look out for, the bargains and the rip-offs. He’s given the CARSguide a few key elements to be on the lookout for.

Under $5000

Don’t be fooled into buying something if it “looks good”. It may have mechanical problems, which will cost you more than the initial price to keep it on the road. Make sure the car has a recent or long registration. This indicates that it has at least had a registration inspection and the fundamentals should be okay. Also, if you’re unsure, you probably need to spend a couple of hundred dollars for a vehicle inspection.

While private sales are popular in this category, Pomroy says that as used car prices have recently decreased, you could also potentially get something from a car yard.

“It might be cheap for a reason: high miles, or a car that doesn’t have a good reputation for reliability.”

Under $10,000

There are some good bargains to be had, Pomroy says. “Some Commodores and Falcons from the 1990s are available for a couple of thousand of dollars upwards.” But he warns there are issues with bigger cars, especially the running costs, and people should consider if they really need a large car.

“Identify what the use of the car will be. If it’s for uni or to leave at the station and mainly suburban, short trips, a small four-cylinder car with an engine capacity of 1.6-litre would be ideal,” he says.

“If you’re doing a lot of country driving or commuting long distances, a larger car with a slightly bigger capacity engine might be a better choice.”

European models also come into play in this category as well as prestige cars.

Pomroy warns European cars can be quite expensive to service and maintain, but he says if you know what you’re looking for, there are some bargains to be had in some older prestige cars. Key safety features to be on the lookout for are ABS and airbags.

“In and around the $5000 mark will have driver airbags and perhaps passenger airbags,” Pomroy says.

Above $10,000

You’re nearly in the territory of buying a new small car. There are many small cars at affordable prices, such as the Kia Rio, Hyundai Getz, with nearly half a dozen models offering a good warranty and new features, according to Pomroy.

The disadvantage is that you’re buying a car that may be a little more basic than a bigger second-hand model from three or four years ago.

Larger second-hand cars also come into play here, with petrol prices contributing to lower price tags.

Buying and selling: what you can expect for your money

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

YOUNG buyers are usually on a fairly limited budget, which reduces the number of cars available.

However, the offers detailed searches for cars in a range of price brackets.

RACQ technical officer Russell Manning advises what you can expect for your money on used cars.

$3000 to $5000

Few dealers operate in this segment, so look to private sales, and all the potential problems that come with them.

There are no stand-outs in this segment.

Buy the best you can find for the money.

Steer clear of unusual, unpopular and modified vehicles, as they’re more likely to cost more to keep on the road. Expect to be mainly looking at vehicles from the mid ’80s.

$5000 to $7500

Many dealers specialize in this bracket.

Look for cars that are popular and have a good reputation, for example early 1990s Corolla, Pulsar, Lancer for small cars, and Commodore, Falcon, Camry for large cars.

Anything in this bracket is likely to have traveled big distances, so look carefully.

Bigger, less fuel-efficient cars are less popular these days and, depending on your circumstances, may be a good buy.

Larger cars are often more durable.

$7500 to $10,000

There’ll be no shortage of cars in this bracket.

Expect to see cars from the mid to late ’90s.

Again, large cars should be attractively priced due to fuel prices, but you’ll also find a range of quality Japanese small vehicles and plenty from Korean makers.

Take your time selecting and pick the best your money will buy.

$10,000 to $12,000

There should be no difficulty finding a quality used car in this range. There will be plenty of Commodores, Falcons, Camrys and Magnas, as well as the full range of mid and small-sized cars from the late ’90s.

Consider putting in a few thousand dollars more and moving into an attractively priced new small car.

New cars to $15,000

All these are in the light car category. Hyundai’s Getz is a great little car for $13,990 in the 1.4-litre and $14,990 in the 1.6-litre.

The Getz Protectz pack costs an extra $1290 but includes electronic stability program, traction control system and front seat side thorax airbags, for $1290.

Toyota’s Yaris 1.3-litre starts at $14,990 and for $750 you can get seven air bags.

Holden Barina 1.6-litre three-door hatch costs $13,490 and the five-door hatch and four-door sedan are $14,990.

Best and worst value used cars in Australia

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

USED-car prices are plumbing record lows because of an oversupply caused by booming new vehicle sales.

Nick Adamidis, national sales and marketing manager for automotive research company Glass’s Information Service, says people are being forced to sell their cars cheaply.

“The new-car market has been booming for the past few years and as a result there’s an oversupply in the market place, which means that used cars are not necessarily bringing the prices people believe they are worth,” he said.

“The price of fuel has had a big effect on cars with V8 engines, for example, which are depreciating faster than other vehicles as people try to get rid of them.

“People now expect a discount if they are buying a V8, because of their petrol usage.”

In 2000, a three-year-old V6-engined Holden Commodore Executive sedan could be bought for just over 50 per cent of its original purchase price, but today buyers have to pay only 44 per cent of the original price.

Mr Adamidis said drops in tariffs on imported vehicles were also driving prices down.

“It affects the whole market, because if the makers of imported vehicles drop their price by $2500 then the local makers have to drop their prices as well to stay competitive,” he said.

“It’s a great time to be buying a used car — it’s a buyers’ market.

“But we’ve still got a fair way to go. In the US and the UK, where the markets are more free, the average car, after three years, is worth 30 per cent of the original purchase price.

“In Australia, the average is 45 per cent, but we’re heading in that direction and we’ll get there in the next five to seven years.”

The drop in used-car prices has also been noted by the NSW Department of Commerce, which manages the Government’s fleet.

A department spokeswoman said State Fleet had tracked a downward trend in the prices it was getting for its used vehicles.

Large, locally manufactured cars have had the biggest drop with much less in the small car segment. The drop in prices was spurring sales, however, with clearance rates at government auctions over the past two weeks of 99 per cent and 94 per cent, respectively.

David Smith, senior manager of divisional services for the Motor Traders’ Association of NSW, said prices would continue to fall.

“Some of the less fuel-efficient cars are definitely feeling it, but small cars are holding their value fairly well,” he said.

“That’s a reflection of the new-car market, because a lot of people are buying smaller cars and a lot of them are being traded in.”

He said that used-car dealers were the ones being squeezed by the price falls.

“There are a lot of dealers out there who are doing it tough,” Mr Smith added.

BEST VALUE RETAINED*

Small

Subaru Impreza …………. 62%

Mini Cooper ……………… 61%

Mitsubishi Lancer ………. 59%

Medium

Subaru Liberty ………….. 58%

Mazda 6 ………………….. 55%

Honda Accord …………… 53%

Large

Toyota Camry(4cyl) ……. 45%

Toyota Aurion …………… 42%

Ford Falcon LPG ……….. 42%

4WD

Nissan X-Trail ……………. 64%

Subaru Forester ………… 63%

BMW X3 ………………….. 61%

WORST VALUE RETAINED

Small

Kia Rio ……………………. 38%

Suzuki Swift …………….. 38%

Proton Savvy …………….. 38%

Medium

Kia Optima ………………. 37%

Kia Magentis ……………. 37%

Hyundai Grandeur ……… 37%

Large

Nissan Maxima …………. 37%

Ford Fairmont …………… 34%

Ford Falcon ……………… 32%

4WD

Land Rover Freelander … 42%

Land Rover Discovery …. 40%

Ssangyong Musso …….. 40%

* Based on wholesale prices of three-year-old vehicles in average condition.

Car insurance tips

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

THERE is more to motoring than simply getting your driver’s license.

Young drivers have been warned that they need the correct insurance policy otherwise they could be up for crippling bills in the event of an accident.

Industry expert John Saunders, who has 30 years’ experience in the insurance business, has warned of the potentially devastating impact of cutting corners with car insurance.

“Parents can be unaware that there is often little point in having a young driver’s policy in their name to save money as young drivers need to start earning their no claim bonus at some stage,” Saunders, managing director of Insure Simply, said.

“A smart driver understands what he or she is covered for before an accident occurs rather than learning the hard way.”

Insure Simply is claimed to be Australia’s first online service enabling users to compare competitive policies in an objective and easily identifiable way.

Among the companies Insure Simply list for comparisons are Allianz, QBE and Suncorp.

There are some useful tips on what new or young drivers need to know, some are blindingly obvious others need a little more thought.

Here are some tips regarding car insurance:

* Policies usually exclude cover when a car is notroadworthy. eg: If an accident is caused by bad brakes and their poor condition was obvious beforehand, this could cause a claim to be denied.

* If you have a nominated driver policy, cover is normally only extended if driven by others in an emergency.

* Policies exclude cover for damage (and liability to others) when the driver is drunk. (The driver’s car may not be worth much but cars or property they damage could be worth considerably more.

* Policies exclude cover while racing.

* Agreed value is not necessarily superior to market value as the market values are the basis of agreed values anyway.

* Check policy to see what accessories are covered.

* Make sure the insurer is informed about performance enhancing extras.

* But totally truthful in any insurance application. It would save your money in the premium but it may result in no cover when it’s needed.

* Any fraudulent claims are normally pursued by insurers.

How to change a tyre

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

15 December 2005

It is surprising how many people do not
know how, or simply do not want to change a
flat tyre.

And everyone will experience one sooner or
later, it goes with owning a car and driving.

A trend is emerging to call a road service
organization or a mechanic to come and do the
job.

If you look at it rationally, changing a flat
tyre is relatively simple but it has to be done
safely.

It would be beneficial to make changing a
flat part of licence testing.

When you get a flat tyre, the most important
thing to do is to get the vehicle off the road and
away from fast moving traffic as much as
possible.

You can move the car a little but not much
otherwise it will damage the tyre.

The ground should be hard as it’s almost
impossible to jack up a car on soft ground.
Apply the hand brake and put the transmission in gear, P if it’s an automatic.

If the car has a safety triangle, it should be
deployed about 10 meters behind the vehicle to
warn other road users.

And here’s a trick, carry a pair of cloth
gloves in the boot to wear when changing a flat
otherwise you will need hand cleaner after the
job is done.

You can also use the gloves at the service
station when refelling.

Dealing with anything involving wheels and
tyres on a car will produce grime on your
hands.

If the rear of the car is going to be raised,
chock the front wheels (stop them rolling) if
possible.

Take out the jack and follow the instructions
to the letter with special attention to the correct
jacking points under the car. These will be
indicated with small diagrams on the jack.

Place the jack under the car and wind it up
a little but before the wheel is off the ground,
remove the wheel cover – usually levered off,
and then use the wheel brace (large socket
spanner) to loosen all the wheel nuts.

If the nuts are on tight, stand on the longer
arm of the wheel brace to free them. They undo
anti-clockwise.

Jack up the car until the flat tyre is well off
the ground, about 10cm would be good.

Undo all the wheel nuts and take the tyre off
the studs (the threaded bits).

Keep the wheel nuts in one place. Roll the
flat tyre out of the way and lay it on the side so
it won’t roll away.

Take the spare from its holding place and roll
it to where it’s needed.

The tricky bit is to line up the holes in the
wheel with the studs. It requires some strength
but if you line everything up fairly closely, the
lift isn’t too great.

Put the top wheel nut on to secure the spare
in place but you will probably have to place
your foot against the bottom of the spare to
hold it there until a couple of wheel nuts are on.

Tighten them all finger tight and then snug
them up with the wheel brace before lowering
the jack and tightening them properly but don’t
stand on the wheel brace to do this, just use your
hands.

Replace the wheel cover, put the flat in the
boot together with the jack, wheel brace and
safety triangle and off to the tyre dealer to have
it repaired. Try and do this straight away
otherwise you might forget until the next flat,
then you will be in some bother.

Spotlight on safety

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

It is rare to see a long-haul truck at night without fully functional illumination. That means low- and high- beam headlights, extra driving lights, clearance lights, indicators, brake, parking and tail lights and number plate lights.

Why?

Because, apart from being their livelihood, a trucking’s vehicle is checked pretty well every day a check that includes all the lights.

Not only that, but the vehicle is properly set-up to provide optimum illumination with the available lights and to cause the lowest impact on other road users.

Now, think about private car owners and how many you see with weak headlights, only one headlight, no brake or tail lights, misaligned headlights, malfunctioning indicators and you begin to wonder what’s going on.

The answer is simple. Many car owners are apathetic about vehicle maintenance and never check it to ensure everything is fully functional.

Lights more specifically, poor lights or no lights would contribute to many road deaths in this state.

There is justification for a crackdown at various levels to ensure drivers can at least see reasonably well at night or be seen by other road users.

Headlights or headlight filaments don’t last forever and must be replaced after a few years.

Its capacity to generate light diminishes over time to the point where old halogen lights emit only a dull yellow glow. Letting headlights deteriorate to the point of failure is foolhardy. They can be tested for candlepower output relatively easily and replacements are cheap.

The car’s electrical system should also be monitored because failing electrics for whatever reason (battery, alternator, faulty wiring) can also cause dull lights.

Another consideration is beam alignment.

This, along with the lights, should be checked each year with a registration inspection but seem to be a low priority given the number of cars with obviously misaligned headlights.

These are the ones that dazzle oncoming drivers because they are set too high or point too low or too far to one side to the point of being ineffectual.

Headlight alignment is a simple, quick task that can be carried out by your rego inspector.

Other lights need monitoring: the brake, tail and indicator lights all perform critical functions. If faulty, they can cause a collision.

Even rear fog lights and reversing lights play an important part but unfortunately, most car owners never check them.

When you boil it all down, there’s a huge safety bonus from spending a couple of minutes each week checking the condition of a handful of globes that cost a couple of dollars and take about five minutes or less to replace for a huge boost in safety.

Some cars also have blown light warning systems on the dash.

Toothpaste and kerosene, your car’s best friends

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

Some drivers go to great lengths to keep their cars spick and span. For example, did you know that some car-lovers even use a photographer’s loupe to inspect the condition of the paint job.

We have scoured the internet for some weird and wacky car tips. Read on if you want to find out why you should turn off your radio when driving over a pot hole or why you have to brush up on body language when buying a used car.

What is the easiest way to protect your car’s appearance and its price?
Simply give your car a wash each week. This includes attending to bird droppings as soon as you spot them – the stuff in them can seriously damage your paint job.

Also, if you want to be really pedantic, get under the car and clean the chassis of all the grease and grime that’s built up from filthy roads. The best way to do it? Kerosene. Sure, it’s stinky and you’d better hope no one lights a match while you’re doing it, but it does the best job.

And if kerosene wasn’t strange enough as a car cleaning product, did you know that some people actually put toothpaste on their alloy wheels?

Apparently the ingredients in the old Colgate are one of the most effective cleaning products for alloys.

These days everyone is looking for ways to save on petrol and the best way to do that is to make sure you take good care of the engine because a well tuned engine means lower fuel consumption. Also, avoid those jackrabbit style starts because not only do they make the car use more petrol but they are bad for the tyres as well.

Gone to pick up a friend and they are not quite ready? Turn off your engine while you wait. One minute of idling uses more fuel than restarting your vehicle again.

If you’re buying a privately-owned car. brush up on your understanding of sellers’ body language.

When you discuss the service history, chances are the owner will not always be truthful. But you can pick the porkies from the truth because fibbers tend to touch their ears or cover their mouth.

If you’re buying a new car and wondering whether to go for Arabian Black or Caledonian Blue, remember this – white is the most durable paint color, the easiest to touch up and the easiest to clean. It also reflects heat and your air-conditioner doesn’t have to work so hard, so you save fuel.

Finally, why should you turn off your radio before you hit a pothole?
When a suspension arm cracks it produces a low pitch sound. You won’t hear it if you’re singing along to the Top 40.

News Interactive

Tips on buying a car

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

After buying a house, buying a car is the second most expensive purchase
most of us are ever likely to make in our lives so it’s important to
get it right.

Here are a few handy tips to help you make the right decision:

NEW OR USED

Nothing beats the smell of a new car, the thrill of driving away in a car that is yours, one that’s never been owned by anyone else, but it comes at a price in the form of depreciation. You can virtually write off 20 per cent of the purchase price the moment you drive away from the dealer because it’s then a used car. Cars depreciate faster in the first two or three years of their life and the new car buyer has to cop that for the pleasure of being the first owner. By buying used it’s possible to avoid the heaviest depreciation. Cars will still depreciate in their latter years, but at a lower rate.

New car buyers can choose the color of their car, the trim color, the engine, transmission and other options and accessories, but used car buyers have to take what’s available.

New car buyers have the reassuring backup of a new car warranty so they know that if anything goes wrong they won’t be up for a big repair bill. Anyone buying from a used care dealer will also have a warranty, but it won’t be for as long as the new car warranty. Private buyers don’t have any warranty.

By buying used it’s possible to get behind the wheel of a better car than you might when buying new. For the cost of a new Commodore or Falcon it is possible to drive a used BMW or Mercedes-Benz.

There is always the risk of buying a ‘lemon’ when buying used because there is no way of knowing how previous owners have treated a car.

NEGOTIATING WITH DEALERS

It’s a buyers market which means you can bargain with dealers for a better deal, but you need to be prepared for the battle.

Do some homework on market values before you go shopping so you know the value of the car you’re buying and the value of your trade-in. That way you’ll be better placed to barter with the dealer.

Have your finance arranged before you go shopping, but don’t tell the dealer. Dealers will often cut the price of a car believing they’ll make money on the finance.

Don’t settle on the first car you inspect. Visit a number of dealers and compare deals before making a commitment.

Look for a dealer well stocked with the car you want and he’ll be more prepared to deal.

Shop towards the end of the month when dealers are looking to get their quotas up.

FINANCING YOUR WHEELS

Few of us are able to hand over a wad of cash to pay for our car, we all need finance for the purchase.

Before you start work out how much you afford to pay, and how much you can afford to repay.

Don’t be tempted to use your credit card to pay for your car, the interest rate on credit cards is generally very high.

Finance through dealers is the most expensive, dealers are on-selling the finance to you and they are making a profit on the deal, so cut out the middle man and go straight to the source of the finance.

Banks offer finance at a cheaper rate than the dealers, but approval can take time.

Independent finance companies specializing in car finance often have the lowest interest rates, and some offer fast approvals with an on-line service.

WHERE TO BUY

Buying from a dealer gives you the security of a warranty. By law dealers have to give you a warranty which gives you some recourse if something goes wrong with the car later.

Dealers also have to guarantee ownership of the vehicle, that there is no outstanding finance on it which might complicate matters later. They also have to guarantee the odometer reading.

It’s possible to buy cars cheaper at auction, but there are risks. There’s little chance to check a car over, there’s no chance to drive it, so you take a risk on its condition. The auction environment is not one for the faint hearted, it’s fast moving with lots of little nods, winks and gestures for those in the know. Spend the time to visit auctions to become familiar with them before attempting to join in the action. It’s a good idea to take along someone with mechanical knowledge to help you assess the cars before the auction starts.

Buying privately can be a way of saving money, but it can be risky for the unwary. There is no comeback with a private purchase, once you’ve driven away you’re on your own, however you will almost always pay less for a private purchase than through a dealer.

USEFUL CHECKS WHEN BUYING USED

If you’re buying a used car privately you should proceed carefully.

Shop around before you spend. Look at a number of cars so you can get a good idea of the prices, average odometer readings and general condition of cars on offer so you’re armed and ready to negotiate with the seller.

Ask to see the car’s service book and check its service history. It is worth making a phone call to the service agent and ask them about the car. If there isn’t a service history walk away.

Check with the RTA to make sure the seller is the owner of the car and that it has a clear title of ownership with no outstanding finance on it.

Check the car’s history by using the vehicle’s VIN number.

Have the car checked by the NRMA or other respected organization who will be able to give you a pre-purchase inspection and report on the condition of the car.

Buy a car with as much registration left on it as possible. That way you won’t have to spend a few hundred dollars extra soon after buying it.

Before test driving a car make sure it is insured and that the coverage includes you as the driver.

When viewing adverts online from private advertisers, beware of common internet scams. These usually involve the advertiser requesting you transfer money before you’ve seen the vehicle but there are several variations. Check our section for some useful advise on avoiding the popular cons.

Remember. If it seems to good to be true; it probably is!

News Interactive

Caravan safety

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

It generates more than the usual amount of caravan traffic to destinations further north.

Chances are the ‘van has been sitting around unused for six or more months and the tyres could have developed a flat spot or the rubber perished.

If that’s the case, the tyre could fail out in some remote location, just where you don’t need the grief.

Caravan tyres have thicker plies than passenger car tyres and are more susceptible to flat spotting if left in the one place for a long time.

There are different tyres for different ‘van applications, too, so if you haven’t been all that fastidious and didn’t put the van on blocks with the wheels and tyres protected, take the wheels off and have the tyres professionally inspected. While they are off, it’s a good time to regrease and retention the wheel bearings and also ensure the brakes work including the parking brake.

It is essential to use the right type of tyres for your ‘van specifically, its weight and size. Weight is definitely the biggest issue for motorists who own caravans.

A caravan manufacturer will supply the tare weight of the caravan, but with extras like the gas bottle, topped up water tanks, the bike and everything else packed aboard, it may add another 500kg. Obviously the tyres need to be able to handle this weight.

Depending on the size of the caravan, tyres might have to carry loads of between 1000 and 3000kg.

The easiest way to check the weight of a fully laden caravan is on a weigh bridge.

When the weight is determined, a certificate is issued which should be taken to your tyre center to ensure the tyres fitted are able to carry the load and if not they can recommend an alternative.

It is also highly advisable to carry a spare for the caravan so ensure it is fully inflated and in good condition.

Tyre pressures can impact on the handling of the vehicle and caravan. Most tyre problems on caravans and trailers are the result of overloading, or not increasing tyre pressure to compensate for the load.